If you think you know the Riviera, think again.
Forget the blue clichés the umbrellas, the Aperol, the selfies on the Promenade. Let me tell you about the other Riviera, the one that glows in shades of amber and gold when the crowds go home.
Just a couple of hours north of Nice, the Mediterranean gives way to mountains, and summer’s soundtrack fades into something quieter the crunch of leaves, the whisper of wind through pines, the distant echo of a cowbell in the valley. The air shifts too: sharper, cleaner, scented with pine and wood smoke.
This is the Other Riviera where the sea’s blue gives way to the forests’ copper, and where you remember that Nice isn’t just a coastal beauty, but the gateway to some of France’s most stunning wilderness.
The Golden Trails We Love
You don’t need to be an athlete just curious, and ready to trade flip-flops for hiking shoes.
The Lac de Beuil Trail
Tucked near the village of Beuil, this trail offers a front-row view of the autumn symphony larches turning gold, mountain air crisp enough to wake the senses, and sweeping views of the Tinée Valley. It’s the kind of walk that makes you forget the coast entirely, until you spot a flash of blue far below.
The Lac de Trécolpas, Saint-Martin-Vésubie
If you’re after postcard perfection, this is it. The path climbs gently through spruce forests, streams, and waterfalls before opening to a mirror-like lake framed
by snow-dusted peaks. Bring layers and time to just sit in silence.
And if you’re not in a hurry to head back, take the detour toward Refuge de la Cougourde a cozy mountain hut about 45 minutes away. They serve hearty meals, cold beer, and sometimes a slice of blueberry pie that tastes like you’ve earned every bite. It’s the kind of stop that turns a hike into a memory.
The Boréon Valley & Col de la Couillole
For those who prefer scenic drives with a dose of solitude, head through Boréon and over the Col de la Couillole. The roads wind through golden forests and quiet villages, offering views that look more Canadian than Côte d’Azur. Every bend feels like a photograph waiting to happen.
Travel Tip : Take the Scenic (and Snack) Route
If you’re heading to the mountains from Nice, leave early not just for the sunrise over the valleys, but for a stop at Boulangerie Mazlout Faouzi in Plan-du-Var.
It’s the last bakery before the climb, run for over 30 years by a Tunisian couple whose warmth rivals their pastries. Order a coffee, chat for a while, and try their mouna a sweet brioche that tastes like sunshine and nostalgia.
It’s not famous. That’s why it’s perfect.
A Picnic Is the Best Table in the Alps
Forget reservations. Pack a picnic local cheese, a crusty baguette, maybe a slice of tarte aux pommes and find your spot.
At Beuil or Trécolpas, there’s always a rock that feels made for two. The best lunch view on the Riviera doesn’t come with a bill.
Why this Riviera feels different
The coast dazzles; the hills breathe. One is champagne and suncream, the other pine and quiet. Both are beautiful, both are Riviera just not in the same way. And that’s the secret most visitors miss: Nice isn’t a summer fling. It’s a four-season story.
Plan Your Autumn Escape
Our team at La Maison Durante will be happy to help you plan your day in the hills from weather tips to trail maps and a few picnic secrets of our own.
